Gwydyr Forest surrounds Betws-y-Coed on three sides, covering around 28 square miles of ancient woodland, planted conifers, moorland and former lead-mine workings. Managed by Natural Resources Wales (formerly the Forestry Commission, which planted much of the forest from the 1920s onwards), it is one of the most varied and rewarding forests in Britain and gives the village much of its character. The name comes from Gwydyr Castle in Llanrwst, a 16th-century mansion that sits at the northern edge of the forest and is open to visitors. The landscape — old stone walls threading between conifers, flooded mine shafts now colonised by dragonflies and waterfowl, patches of ancient sessile oak that predate the plantation — has a quality that purpose-built recreation forests rarely achieve.
The most rewarding single destination within Gwydyr is Llyn Elsi, a beautiful upland reservoir at around 280 metres, built in 1914 to supply water to Llanrwst. The walk from Betws-y-Coed via the signed path from St Mary’s Church climbs steeply through mixed woodland and takes 45 to 60 minutes, emerging above the treeline at the dam with excellent views across the Conwy Valley. A circular path around the lake takes another 30 minutes and passes through varied woodland, with open moorland views on the higher side of the lake. The reservoir itself is beautiful in any season — still water reflecting the forest in autumn, iced edges in winter, the forest greening around it in spring.
Gwydyr Forest is one of the better places in North Wales to see red squirrels. The species was reintroduced to the forest as part of a wider conservation programme and the population has established reasonably well. Sightings are not guaranteed, but patient observers around the lakeside picnic areas and the hazels near the forest edge stand a genuine chance of an encounter. Red squirrels are smaller and more delicately built than the grey squirrels that have replaced them across most of Britain, with ear tufts that are most prominent in winter. A genuine encounter is one of the more memorable wildlife moments available in Snowdonia.
The Marin Trail, Gwydyr’s 25-kilometre mountain-bike circuit, is graded red (difficult) and is one of the best-known off-road cycling routes in Wales. It uses a combination of forest roads and purpose-built singletrack, with a long descent back towards Betws-y-Coed as its climax. A blue-graded variant is available for less experienced riders. Both routes start and finish in the village and are waymarked throughout.
The forest supports a rich bird community. Common crossbills feed on conifer seeds and are resident year-round; the males are brick-red, the females greenish, and the call — a sharp “jip jip” — is the easiest way to locate them in the canopy. Siskins are abundant in winter, feeding in alder and birch along the stream edges. Pied flycatchers and redstarts arrive in April and use nest boxes throughout the forest. Tawny owls are numerous and vocal on autumn nights. Red kites drift over the forest regularly. Pine martens have been recorded in Gwydyr in recent years — not a reliable sighting, but they are there.
Gwydyr at its October peak is one of the finest autumn colour displays in Wales. The native oaks, rowans, birches and hazels turn gold, copper and amber against the darker conifers, and the still water of Llyn Elsi reflects the colour in a way that makes photography almost effortless. The second and third weeks of October are generally the best, varying slightly by year. The forest is busy at this time, particularly at weekends, but wide enough to absorb visitors without feeling crowded. Mid-week visits in October give nearly the same experience with significantly fewer people.
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