Blaenau Ffestiniog sits in a bowl of grey-blue mountain, surrounded by the largest slate-quarry landscape in the world. For over a century this small town produced much of the roofing slate that covered Britain and was exported across the globe. The quarries closed progressively through the 20th century, leaving a dramatic industrial landscape that has been recognised as part of the Gwynedd Slate Landscape UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town itself is modest and unassuming, but the scenery that surrounds it — vast terraced tips, dark mountains, narrow streets descending to a single main road — is unlike anywhere else in Wales.
Drive time from Betws-y-Coed is about 20 minutes south on the A470, a good road that runs through the Lledr Valley with the river alongside it for much of the way. Alternatively, take the Conwy Valley Line train: the southward section climbs through some of the finest gorge scenery in North Wales and arrives directly at Blaenau station, where it connects with the Ffestiniog Railway.
Llechwedd is the main visitor attraction in Blaenau and one of the most memorable experiences in North Wales. The site divides into underground and above-ground sections. The Deep Mine tour is the highlight: passengers descend on a steep underground tramway — one of the steepest in Britain — before exploring a series of illuminated caverns where Victorian miners once worked by candlelight. The scale of the excavation, the cold air, the geological formations and the human story are all compelling. Tours run regularly and advance booking is strongly recommended in summer and school holidays.
Above ground, Bounce Below is a subterranean trampoline network installed in old caverns — an unusual and popular activity for children and adults. Zip wires are also available on the surface. The site has a pub, cafe and a reconstructed Victorian village street. Allow a minimum of two hours, more if you are doing multiple activities.
The narrow-gauge Ffestiniog Railway runs south from Blaenau Ffestiniog to Porthmadog through some of the best mountain and woodland scenery in Wales. The line was built in 1836 to carry slate from the quarries to the ships at Porthmadog; it is now the oldest surviving narrow-gauge steam railway in the world. The journey takes about an hour each way through Tan-y-Bwlch and the Moelwyn mountains. At Porthmadog, connections with the Welsh Highland Railway extend the narrow-gauge network all the way to Caernarfon through the heart of Snowdonia — a full day’s adventure. Book at festrail.co.uk.
Blaenau Ffestiniog is not a tourist town in the polished sense, and that is part of its appeal. The main street has a few good cafes and local shops. The town has a strong Welsh-speaking community and a resilient local culture. A visit to the local pub for a quiet lunch — the food tends to be straightforward and good value — is an enjoyable contrast to the more visitor-heavy atmosphere of Betws-y-Coed. The Friday market brings local producers to the town square.
Blaenau Ffestiniog receives more rainfall than almost anywhere else in Wales, which locals will mention with a certain pride. This makes it an excellent rainy-day destination from Betws-y-Coed: the underground caverns at Llechwedd are entirely weather-independent, the train journey is as dramatic in mist as in sun, and the landscape is perhaps most atmospheric under grey skies with cloud clinging to the slate tips. Summer weekends are the busiest time; spring and autumn are quieter and the light on the mountains is often better.
Search hotels, B&Bs, inns and self-catering across Betws-y-Coed and Snowdonia — powered by Booking.com.
Search Accommodation on Booking.com →Powered by Booking.com — our affiliate partner
Day trips